Traveling across Lagos During the Violent #EndSars Protests in Nigeria. Addendum 4.

This post is one in a Series. A list of all of the posts in this Series can be accessed here.


We just left Obalende.

I had run out of liquid funds. A trenchant consequence of the severely disorienting impediment constituted by the violent protests, was that the trip had taken about two days longer than planned.

It should have been about four/five hours max. It is now about two days since I left my place of abode. I’m still not yet at my destination.

I asked a number of people for money at the bus stop, because cash on hand had run out.

I used to think asking people for money was a sign of poverty- A negative thing. Okay well maybe when it’s a continual occurrence in one’s life. But every once in a while? In cases involving like unprecedented/extremely unlikely circumstances? I don’t think there’s anything wrong. I really do not think so.

A few months ago I was in a public transportation bus. The fare was about N50 more than I expected, and I didn’t have enough cash on hand to pay the bus conductor. At the time I had a few million Naira in the bank. I was literally a millionaire. Like, millionaire in terms of liquid funds, and not even assets or net worth. Well in Nigerian Naira at least.

Two options seemed clear to me:

One: Exit the bus, go withdraw some money, get back.

Two: Ask the guy sitting beside you to help you out with the required fifty Naira.

I was very tired that afternoon. The Nigerian sun was extra-blistering that day. Just the thought of re-entering the searing radiation being propagated across space from the distressingly merciless object at the center of this solar system, injected my consciousness with some serious despair.

There is no way I am leaving this bus. Entering that sun? Waiting for the “next turn” bus to be full???

No, no way. No motherfucking way. I do not care what numbers my bank is reporting to me. I do not motherfucking care.

I turned to the guy sitting next to me, and I asked him for assistance. No time.


We just left Obalende.

About ten minutes into the journey, I realize this is the fastest I have ever been transported across the Lagos Third Mainland Bridge.

There is like nobody on the road. Traffic congestion right now, is a non-sequitur.

Just the occasional group of random guys with their arbitrary roadblocks and their unconstitutional financial demands.

On the way, we see some soldiers driving along the road in their pickup trucks, scaring away the illegitimate roadblock guys.

At some point the driver stops giving the roadblock guys money, and begins threatening them with soldiers coming from behind.

Soldier dey come, Soldier dey come!!!

They would be too startled with apprehension to demand money before the bus breezed past.

In a surreally short amount of time, we are at the Ikeja Secretariat.

I alight.


Shoprite Bus Stop.

There are a number of law enforcement officers up ahead. They are beating up some guy.

I come to a halt and turn into a corner by the left, while I take some time to properly assess the situation. I’m not interested in being a victim of physical assault this morning.

As I stand there- watching and pondering the situation, I see a guy walking up to the main road. He looks like he’s coming from a jog.

His breathing is moderately heavy, and his shiny sportswear shirt is somewhat wet with sweat. He is marching towards the road, exuding a convincing aura of adrenaline-enhanced confidence.

Ah. Look at his guy. Look at this guy walking like there’s absolutely nothing in the world which can constitute a respectable problem for him.

Ah. Ah, I think I need to move closer to this guy.

I walk towards him and interject his march with a question. We exchange a few sentences. I latch onto his momentum, and join his march.

There’s another guy close-by. He joins the procession as we proceed into the main road, and towards the soldiers.

I’m staring at the back of the jogger guy. His back looks so broad and muscular and entrancing. He is swaggering towards the officers ahead with unquestioned confidence. I wonder if this is sort of remarkable formidableness and assuredness that women experience in men, and become completely disoriented and dumbfounded.

Like, I’m a guy and I’m very inspired and impressed by the sweaty jogger guy and his unreal confidence. I wonder what a woman would feel, especially given the additional sexual angle to it in that case.


We are at the roadblock.

The soldiers begin to accost us.

WHERE UNA DEY GO???

The jogger guy responds immediately with this reassuring dissatisfaction that convinces one of the legitimacy of his position:

I dey go my house. All these protesters just dey cause trouble for this our road.

My mind is very blown.

Our road. “Our”. Like, OUR, road.

Jesus. Jesus Christ. This guy owns he road. I am walking with the guy who OWNS the road. Okay o. Okay Sir. Okay Sir, let’s go.

I am immensely impressed. Before the soldiers can come up with more questions, we’re past the roadblock.

We keep moving. At some point we head in different directions. The owner of the road heads in what I believe is the direction of the place where he lives.


I am heading towards Computer Village.

A building by the left catches my attention. The outfit on the ground floor says “24 hour Cafe”.

I am surprised and interested. I wonder what a 24 hour cafe in Lagos will be like. I make a mental note to stop by some time.

Computer Village is up ahead. I’m kinda tired. Legs hurt. I keep moving.


Image: Somewhere in Lagos.


This post is one in a Series. A list of all of the posts in this Series can be accessed here.

Traveling across Lagos During the Violent #EndSars Protests in Nigeria. Addendum 3.

This post is one in a Series. A list of all of the posts in this Series can be accessed here.


You paid for your passport renewal on the Immigration Service website?

Yes, yes I did.

Why?? Why did you pay on the website?

In other words:

Don’t you know the website is just for show? It is not supposed to be used as an actual website. A domain was purchased and some webpages were uploaded. Money exchanged hands, as payment for the “technical expertise” involved. All so it could be said that the National Immigration Service of the nation of Nigeria, has a website.

BUT YOU ARE NOT EXPECTED TO USE THE WEBSITE FOR ANYTHINGG!!!!

IF YOU WANT TO GET ANYTHING DONE, COME TO THE OFFICE PHYSICALLY!!!

Alright, alright. My bad. I’m very sorry. I didn’t know that. This is definitely a Nigerian thing I’m freshly becoming aware of. Government websites are just for show. Do not use them for anything. Most importantly do not make any payments on them. If you want to get anything done, go to the physical office. Okay thank you. Thank you very much.


I am walking by the Ikoyi branch of the Nigerian Passport Office. I hiss as some annoyance at a recent experience with the Passport Office resurges. I paid for a passport renewal on the website. That was earlier in the year, before the pandemic. It has been a considerable number of months since then. No new passport. No refund. Just a profuse slathering with thick layers of frustration whenever I visit the offices. Guess who is never again apportioning any significant regard to the technical expertise of a certain country’s government agencies, other things being equal.


We were just let through another roadblock. Soldiers decided to be lenient. There’s yet another one ahead. Soldier said we would not be allowed entry back in our initial direction if the roadblock ahead proved impervious to our progress-oriented intentions. And so right now we exist in the gap between two roadblocks.

The next roadblock is right next to a prison. I heard some prisoners were set free by #EndSars protesters. Police is trying to recapture them, something like that. I do not know if the story is true, but there’s a lot of commotion up ahead. Loud voices and oscillating bodies and belligerent gunshots up in the air. It actually does look like a scene involving escaped prisoners.

Walking beside me, is this guy. We began talking after the most recent roadblock. He works as a gardener somewhere on Banana Island. He’s headed back to his home in Obalende after a day’s work. We think about what to do, and how to approach the situation ahead.

The soldier back there said there’s no coming back. These soldiers up ahead look disconcertingly bellicose. What do we do?

We keep thinking. As we think and talk, we drift closer to the soldiers up ahead.

We are getting closer. We have a very unnerving scene up ahead. I can see about twenty bodies undergoing frog jumps.

What is happening? Why are they frog jumping?

More gunshots.

Oh God.

At some point we are close enough to be within the field of vision of one of the soldiers.

HEY!! YOU!!! TWO OF YOU!!!! COME HEREEE!!!!!

Alas. We have just trespassed the event horizon of this military black hole. Now our physical bodies are being choicelessly drawn towards the menacing beings that constitute this pernicious collapsed star.

Spacetime is now curved, and our physical bodies have no choice but to slide down this curvature and into the gaping chasm of military defilement that awaits us.

Ah! We are done for.

A soldier bellows:

OYA!! FROG JUMP!!! FROG JUMP FROG JUMP!!!!!!

Up and down. Up and down. We join the frog-jumping bodies which were alarming me from a distance a while back.

Now we are right in front of the soldiers. Gunshots keep ringing.

WHERE UNA DEY GO??? WETIN UNA DEY DO FOR HERE??? UNA NO KNOW SAY CURFEW DEYY????

We try to explain. There are two people behind us- male and female. I think they are siblings. One of the soldiers has a bright green rubber pipe in his hand. I think its one of the types used to lay underground cables. He hits the male sibling across the torso with the pipe. I think his frog-jump was unsatisfactory.

We are asked some more questions. And some more.

At some point the soldiers decide to let us through.

OYA!! FROG JUMP!!! FROG JUMP FROG JUMP!!!!!!

We keep frog-jumping. We keep frog-jumping till they’re out of sight.

Obalende bus stop.


Image: Obalende.


This post is one in a Series. A list of all of the posts in this Series can be accessed here.

Traveling across Lagos During the Violent #EndSars Protests in Nigeria. Addendum 2.

This post is one in a Series. A list of all of the posts in this Series can be accessed here.


I am at Falomo roundabout.

I had to get myself out of Victoria Island as quickly as possible, after becoming aware of the dense military presence there.

I am descending the bridge.

A guy with a machete is walking towards me. I feel relatively calm. The guys with machetes are generally friendly. Their enemy is law enforcement. And I’m not law enforcement. In fact, my very rough-looking hair is pretty convincing evidence that we’re on the same team.

The #EndSars protests exist in the first place, because law enforcement officers have been extremely cruel to guys with unexplained wealth and deviant hairstyles. Guys like me. Although I definitely have work to do on the unexplained wealth part.

Their enemy is law enforcement, and so the guys with machetes causing a ruckus in the streets, are relatively friendly.

Okay there was one guy who was not particularly friendly. But that was just one, in like the five hundred I’ve come across in the past few days.

He walked up to me with an astoundingly ludicrous allegation:

Hey you. You are one of the people funding the SARS. You are one of the people giving them money for operations. Oya open your bag, let me see what is inside.

I was very stunned. I was still thinking about how to respond when a little chaos erupted a few meters down the road.

Ah ah ah!! Something don dey happen for there- make we go catch that guy!!!

He turned around and began to sprint in the direction of the commotion.

I think he was high.


I am at Falomo roundabout.

The machete guy asks me a number of questions. Where I’m going. What I’m going to do, etc.

I mouth the usual stuff: Motorbike, sprockets, etc.

He asks for some ID. I hand him my National Identity Number (NIN) slip. He stares dubiously at it.

This is not valid. I need something else.

He corresponds with an older man standing nearby, who nods in acknowledgement.

This is not valid.

I feel some anger beginning to boil inside me.

What do you mean it is not valid?

Do you have any idea how long it took me to get this thing? I had to lie down outside the registration office at like 1am in a sleeping bag! In the cold! The officials attended to just like 20 people that day- I was fortunate to be one of them!

What do you mean it is not valid?

Eventually they let me go.

Commot your cap, commot your cap. Oya waka normal, waka normal.

He’s telling me to take off my beanie and walk normally. I’m not quite sure what “walk normally” means. How was I walking before?

I keep moving.


I am close to Obalende.

There are gunshots.

Ah! Wait wait, what is this I’m hearing? Ah! Yeh! These gunshots are so intense!

The guns ahead are firing at a more ferocious frequency than anything I have encountered in my journey so far.

I’m fretting. I’m fretting seriously.

Ah! What is this? What do I do now?

There is a guy walking towards me. I ask him for information on what’s happening up ahead.

Ah! You better don’t go there!! They will shoot you instantly!! Look at your hair!! You look exactly like the sort of people they plan to kill!!

My trepidation is upgraded to a new level.

Ahhhhhh!!!! I’m finished!!!! I’m done for, Yehhhh!!! What do I do now???

My chest is in turmoil. I keep inching forward.

The gunshots are getting louder.

Another guy is walking by.

Ahhh you better don’t go there, they will shoot you!! Look at how you’re dressed!!!

At this point I think I’ve run out of additional trepidation. Annoyance is what I’m experiencing now.

Please excuse me, leave me alone!! Do you know how many roadblocks I’ve gone past successfully?? Please don’t give me any rubbish this afternoon you this guy!!! Don’t annoy me at all!! I’m going somewhere!!

I keep moving.

There are a number of people sitting under a tree nearby. I join them, and begin to ask some questions in a bid to procure some understanding of the situation.

Hm, there are no dead bodies here. And I do not see anyone in this group with gunshot wounds. That means so far, none of those bullets have gotten to this place. Hm okay, I think I feel relatively safe with these people right now.

The soldiers are visible up ahead, firing their guns riotously into the air. I keep watching.

A guy walks by. He walks with an interesting bounce, and is dripping with swag. I think his shoes look really cool.

Unlike me, he does not stop to talk with the people seated under the tree. He just dusts off his pants, shakes his head vigorously, and heads straight for the soldiers. 

I am completely astonished.

Ah! What kind of guy is this one?? Can he not hear these very demoralizing gunshots?? Ahhh!!!

He gets smaller and smaller as he bounces towards the soldiers on the horizon.

I don’t understand what is happening. I don’t understand at all.

The guy with the swag and cool shoes is no longer visible. It’s difficult to see what’s going on. Everyone at the roadblock up ahead looks so tiny.

I keep watching.

At some point, a much older man seated under the tree calls out to me. He has probably noticed the concentrated concern on my face.

There is no problem, you just go. They are not really shooting anybody. People have been going past the roadblock successfully, there is no issue.

I think I take a deep breath. His words infuse me with some calming confidence.

I begin to prepare myself.


Image: The bridge linking Victoria Island to Ikoyi via Falomo. On a day when there were actually civilian vehicles on the road.


This post is one in a Series. A list of all of the posts in this Series can be accessed here.

Traveling Across Lagos During the Violent #EndSars Protests. Addendum 1.

This post is one in a Series. A list of all of the posts in this Series can be accessed here.


I am at Victoria Island.

I just walked past a number of soldiers. One of them gave me a thumbs up as I walked by, I’m not quite sure why.

I keep walking. There are more soldiers ahead.

Now, I am aware that the fact one of the soldiers gave me an unexplained thumbs up does not mean the other soldiers are going to be as nice. The fact they are all wearing the same uniform does not mean they think alike. They might not even like each other— much less a third-party.

I keep walking.


Hey! You! Where you dey go!!??

I think I wince a little at the suddenness of the bellow. I turn around to figure out where it’s coming from.

It’s a soldier. It’s a soldier standing in the grass.

I knew it. I knew that thumbs up was too good to be true. Now I’m being welcomed back into unwelcoming reality.

He wants to know where I’m going. I mouth something about my motorbike. Sprockets are worn, the bike is important for transportation, etc etc. I reach into my bag to show him the worn sprockets. At some point he nods and lets me go.

I keep walking.


I am walking down Akin Adesola street. I recently walked by a restaurant that reminded me of an aborted meeting with a business partner: From what I heard, he was a gambling prodigy- exceptional at making bets on soccer games. I provided some capital to fund his gambling. I employed some of my data science skills to analyze his gambling history and proffer suggestions aimed to improve his betting strategy. Ah, I had such exciting visions for what we could accomplish together.

It’s been a year since then. I have not received any profits. There is no tangible news on the whereabouts of the capital. In fact he even still obtained some more money from me with a web of flagrant shameless lies.

Ah, this life. I shouldn’t be stressing myself right now. I shouldn’t be walking about during these violent protests. Right now I’m supposed to be chilling and swimming in a resplendent pool of gambling profits, worrying about what to do with all of the excess funds available to me.

Nonsense guy.

I had to delete his contact details from my mobile phone. Just coming across his name while scrolling through my contacts, always spoilt my mood.

I keep walking.


There is this very imposing, impressively white building by the right side of the road. I think it’s the headquarters of some oil company. “Nestoil“, or something like that.

I feel like the building grew out of nowhere. A while ago, I spent about a month living in a nearby hotel here on Victoria Island. I was on vacation- I needed some time to recover after some immensely traumatic experiences I suffered a number of months prior. I walked along this road a number of times. I never saw this building.

Nestoil.

The building is so white though- wow. Hm, I think I need to walk by the front gate to get some inspiration this afternoon.

Nestoil.

It’s considerably hilarious really, how an arbitrary sequence of Latin characters can all of a sudden, come to be imbued with meaning and prestigious significance.

“Nestoil” to me, is usually just supposed to be a random concatenation of alphabets. Maybe it would make me think about “Nest” and “Oil”, and think about “A nest of oil”, as a metaphor and possibly wonder if it’s a very good one.

Right now however, looking at this awe-inspiring, dazzlingly white building with “Nestoil” written on it, immediately makes me give the word substantial regard.


There is a pickup truck approaching. There are arms waving wildly outside the window, and pointing. The arms are clothed in military uniforms.

Wait, wait wait. I think these arms are pointing at me.

The truck gets closer. Some heads and faces are now visible.

WETIN YOU DEY FIND FOR HERE???!!!

One of the soldiers is asking me what my business is, in the area. It is a rhetorical question. He is telling me to get the fuck out, or else.

All of a sudden I realize I am the only non-military human being on this road, as far as the eye can see.

Jesus Christ I’m in trouble. I am in trouble, Jesus. I need to get out of here. I need to get out of here, like right now. Nestoil and their interesting building and their inspiration can wait till another day. I need to get the hell out of this place, Jesus Christ.

I turn around and begin to walk briskly towards Falomo.


I am walking by a roadblock. It is being manned by a soldier. He is doing something on his phone. He doesn’t seem to be aware of me as I pass by.

Hm, will this one be friendly? Or will he be hostile? Should I greet him Good Afternoon? Should I —-

MAYOWA GET OUT OF HERE— GET OUTTTTTT!!!

I keep moving.


This post is one in a Series. A list of all of the posts in this Series can be accessed here.