The Omo Onile with a Machete.

I’m staring at a rip in the Chain Link fence, assessing the damage.

These Omo Onile guys are motherfuckers.

These nonsense guys in the neighbourhood.

A group of them came over to the construction site yesterday, interrupting the activities of the workers setting up the metal fence.

A fe ri Engineer! A o ni je ki e se ise kankan nibi! A fe ri Engineer!!!

We want to see the Site Engineer! We’re not going to let you guys do any construction here! We want to see the Engineer!

The fence guys called me and I had to show up. I think I was asleep or something. In a rented apartment about twenty minutes away. I had to abandon that endeavour to come see what was happening.

I ended up paying them some money. The Omo Onile guys. “Sons of the Soil”.

People are generally familiar with them in Southwestern Nigeria:

Whenever there’s some sort of construction going on in their neighbourhood, they show up sporadically and begin to demand money.

All of this is separate from the money you must have paid the family from which you purchased the land. Separate from official donations to the community, Separate from building costs, etc. These arbitrary guys just show up and begin to demand their “birthright”.

Ah. I wish I could simply approach the organisations I correspond with professionally, and request “birthright funds”.

I wish I could insert “Birthright funds allocation” in like budgets and financial requests and stuff.

I wouldn’t mind at all, if that were actually a thing. I honestly wouldn’t mind.


I had to pay them some money, regardless of the outrageous nature of their claims.

Else they would have put our work on site to a definitive stop.


We had initially agreed on a price. I was doing what I could to beat it down some more.

And then all of a sudden this new guy came along, bristling with fresh discontentment. He began to galvanize his colleagues to raise their price. Began to make them feel like they were settling for a ridiculous amount.

The strangest thing about such negotiations is that you’re not actually paying for anything. You’re not buying anything. And so there’s really no way to quantitatively determine how much the “Sons of the Soil” should be paid. It’s predominantly an interplay between your reluctance to release money and the belligerence of the insistent Omo Oniles.

I had to quickly pay the price I was initially trying to beat down. Before the new guy successfully influenced the rest of them.

But all of that was yesterday.

I thought the Omo Onile issue was completely sorted out.

Who the hell is this guy who ripped the metal fence with a machete?


He’s obviously unaffiliated with the people I paid some money yesterday. Obviously. This guy tornadoed through this space with a very fresh sense of disgruntlement and unfounded entitlement.

I’m standing by the rip- trying to make sense of the situation, and wondering what to do about the diminished morale of the construction workers setting up the fence.

They had to spend the night here yesterday. If setbacks keep occurring at this rate they might just head back into Lagos, with the work here suspended until God knows when.

As I stand here, immersed in contemplation, a being emerges from the trees right up ahead.

His skin is gleaming with sweat.

He has the crazed look of an unimaginably-grieved wild animal in search of an object on which to offload his wrath.

He walks towards me, staring me in the eye as he swings a machete in his right hand.

E gbo, se eyin ni e ra ile yii ni owo Family?

Hello, are you the one who bought this land from the family?

He keeps walking towards me- a menacing scowl on his face as he flexes his machete.

I try to make some meaning of what I’m seeing.

It seems like the blade of his machete is meant for the neck of the person who bought this piece of land.

And so I myself begin to wonder who that unfortunate being might be.

Hm, who is the unfortunate entity who purchased this godforsaken piece of land?

I look around a little, momentarily joining the machete-wielding guy in his search.

Somebody bought this land?

Where is the person?

Where did they go?

Ah, that person is so fucked.


We eventually sorted out the issue.

The guy with the machete was the younger brother of the wife of the younger sister of the actual person I purchased the land from.

Whatever. They have their lives and their family trees.

All of these Nonsense guys.

Of course he collected money. More than the other Omo Onile guys collected per-capita.

It was just annoying that he messed up a part of the fence. The constrution workers had to redo that part.


I am lying down under the shade of a tree, swatting at the occasional mosquito and watching TED-Ed videos on Youtube mobile.

I am right next to the Site. The fence guys are working.

TED-Ed videos seem pretty cool. More objective. With TED talks sometimes it feels like everyone is positing their personal perspective like its absolute truth.

Oh this is how life works.

Oh this is how you should be living your life.

Oh this is how this should be done etc etc.

Ted-Ed videos are more focused on objective topics.

I’ve been watching this video about how toilets evolved through human history.

There are a lot of animated poops and embellished fart sounds.

Hopefully none of those Omo Onile guys come around to cause any more trouble.


Image: At the Construction Site.

Traveling across Lagos During the Violent #EndSars Protests in Nigeria. Addendum 2.

This post is one in a Series. A list of all of the posts in this Series can be accessed here.


I am at Falomo roundabout.

I had to get myself out of Victoria Island as quickly as possible, after becoming aware of the dense military presence there.

I am descending the bridge.

A guy with a machete is walking towards me. I feel relatively calm. The guys with machetes are generally friendly. Their enemy is law enforcement. And I’m not law enforcement. In fact, my very rough-looking hair is pretty convincing evidence that we’re on the same team.

The #EndSars protests exist in the first place, because law enforcement officers have been extremely cruel to guys with unexplained wealth and deviant hairstyles. Guys like me. Although I definitely have work to do on the unexplained wealth part.

Their enemy is law enforcement, and so the guys with machetes causing a ruckus in the streets, are relatively friendly.

Okay there was one guy who was not particularly friendly. But that was just one, in like the five hundred I’ve come across in the past few days.

He walked up to me with an astoundingly ludicrous allegation:

Hey you. You are one of the people funding the SARS. You are one of the people giving them money for operations. Oya open your bag, let me see what is inside.

I was very stunned. I was still thinking about how to respond when a little chaos erupted a few meters down the road.

Ah ah ah!! Something don dey happen for there- make we go catch that guy!!!

He turned around and began to sprint in the direction of the commotion.

I think he was high.


I am at Falomo roundabout.

The machete guy asks me a number of questions. Where I’m going. What I’m going to do, etc.

I mouth the usual stuff: Motorbike, sprockets, etc.

He asks for some ID. I hand him my National Identity Number (NIN) slip. He stares dubiously at it.

This is not valid. I need something else.

He corresponds with an older man standing nearby, who nods in acknowledgement.

This is not valid.

I feel some anger beginning to boil inside me.

What do you mean it is not valid?

Do you have any idea how long it took me to get this thing? I had to lie down outside the registration office at like 1am in a sleeping bag! In the cold! The officials attended to just like 20 people that day- I was fortunate to be one of them!

What do you mean it is not valid?

Eventually they let me go.

Commot your cap, commot your cap. Oya waka normal, waka normal.

He’s telling me to take off my beanie and walk normally. I’m not quite sure what “walk normally” means. How was I walking before?

I keep moving.


I am close to Obalende.

There are gunshots.

Ah! Wait wait, what is this I’m hearing? Ah! Yeh! These gunshots are so intense!

The guns ahead are firing at a more ferocious frequency than anything I have encountered in my journey so far.

I’m fretting. I’m fretting seriously.

Ah! What is this? What do I do now?

There is a guy walking towards me. I ask him for information on what’s happening up ahead.

Ah! You better don’t go there!! They will shoot you instantly!! Look at your hair!! You look exactly like the sort of people they plan to kill!!

My trepidation is upgraded to a new level.

Ahhhhhh!!!! I’m finished!!!! I’m done for, Yehhhh!!! What do I do now???

My chest is in turmoil. I keep inching forward.

The gunshots are getting louder.

Another guy is walking by.

Ahhh you better don’t go there, they will shoot you!! Look at how you’re dressed!!!

At this point I think I’ve run out of additional trepidation. Annoyance is what I’m experiencing now.

Please excuse me, leave me alone!! Do you know how many roadblocks I’ve gone past successfully?? Please don’t give me any rubbish this afternoon you this guy!!! Don’t annoy me at all!! I’m going somewhere!!

I keep moving.

There are a number of people sitting under a tree nearby. I join them, and begin to ask some questions in a bid to procure some understanding of the situation.

Hm, there are no dead bodies here. And I do not see anyone in this group with gunshot wounds. That means so far, none of those bullets have gotten to this place. Hm okay, I think I feel relatively safe with these people right now.

The soldiers are visible up ahead, firing their guns riotously into the air. I keep watching.

A guy walks by. He walks with an interesting bounce, and is dripping with swag. I think his shoes look really cool.

Unlike me, he does not stop to talk with the people seated under the tree. He just dusts off his pants, shakes his head vigorously, and heads straight for the soldiers. 

I am completely astonished.

Ah! What kind of guy is this one?? Can he not hear these very demoralizing gunshots?? Ahhh!!!

He gets smaller and smaller as he bounces towards the soldiers on the horizon.

I don’t understand what is happening. I don’t understand at all.

The guy with the swag and cool shoes is no longer visible. It’s difficult to see what’s going on. Everyone at the roadblock up ahead looks so tiny.

I keep watching.

At some point, a much older man seated under the tree calls out to me. He has probably noticed the concentrated concern on my face.

There is no problem, you just go. They are not really shooting anybody. People have been going past the roadblock successfully, there is no issue.

I think I take a deep breath. His words infuse me with some calming confidence.

I begin to prepare myself.


Image: The bridge linking Victoria Island to Ikoyi via Falomo. On a day when there were actually civilian vehicles on the road.


This post is one in a Series. A list of all of the posts in this Series can be accessed here.

A Story of Headlamps, Watchmen and Machetes.

At The Bus Stop.

It is 11:30 pm as I arrive at my destination bus stop in Ogun state.

It is late. I am just returning from a meeting with a new friend at a restaurant in Ikeja. When I was leaving, I told my father I would try to get back early. I didn’t really mean it, but I did not expect to get back this late.

I stand at the bus stop, contemplating the best way to get to my parents’ place. Usually there are commercial motorcyclists waiting to convey passengers, but it is too late now. There are no motorcyclists around at this time of the night.

It is the rainy season, so the roads are flooded. Roads in Nigeria are generally untarred, except for the major ones. Most of the roads in this country are brown and uneven and bumpy and dusty. In actual fact, I am very hesitant to call them roads. I really just see them as stretches of land on which grasses do not grow because motor vehicles roll over them every now and then. Those things can not be called roads.

And whenever rain falls- and believe me rain does fall in this part of the country, the ground becomes sticky and muddy and bad. Puddles form which are almost as wide as the roads themselves. Motorists try to avoid these huge puddles of brown water by driving along the edges of the road. If it wasn’t for the water in those puddles, I am very sure you could place a bed right in the middle of the road and lie there for an entire day- and absolutely no one would disturb you because everyone was too busy driving along the edges of the road.

As I stand there wondering what to do, a motorcyclist rides towards me.

“A motorcyclist at this time of the night? Ah. Today must be my lucky day”, I think.

I tell him where I’m going and we discuss terms. From his accent, I can tell he is Hausa- from the northern part of the country. Or maybe Fulani. It’s not like I can tell the difference.

“Oga I no fit go that place o. The security wey dey there get very bad mouth- I no like am.”

He explains to me that he cannot take me to my destination. There are some very unruly night watchmen who patrol that area, and he does not like having anything to do with them.

I plead with him and persuade him. Eventually he agrees to take me like three quarters of the way for the full price. I get on his bike. I think it’s a good deal.

 

 

—————————

Encounter with the Watchmen.

“Ogbeni! Pa headlight e jo!”

“Abi eti e di ni! Ani ki o pa headlight e!”

A number of watchmen walk towards us, shouting at the motorbike rider to turn off his headlamp because the light is in their face. They are speaking in Yoruba- one of the major languages in the southwestern part of the country. But the motorbike man is Hausa and from a different part of the country, so he does not understand what they are saying.

“They are saying you should turn off your headlamp, please turn off your headlamp.”

I translate to him in English. He understands, and proceeds to turn off the headlamp of his motorcycle.

Apparently I am too late. The watchmen are already irked. All of a sudden, one of them strikes the motorcycle rider very hard across the chest with the flat side of his machete.

The sound is loud and travels uninhibited through the silence of the night.

“Ahhhhh!!!! You beat me on my chest?! You beat me on my chest?!” The Hausa man cries out.

“Why did you beat me on my chest?!”

“Ogbeni o je ma se were nibi! Nigba ti an so fun e pe ki o pa headlight e o fe gboran abi, on se agidi!”

 The watchmen are obviously unstirred by his righteous cry of indignation.

“Please get down, please get down”, the Hausa man says to me as he gets off his bike and drops it to the ground. He abandons his activist pleas for justice and takes a few moments to clutch his chest and cry out in pain.

“Aaaaaaahhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!”

The watchmen keep chanting to themselves in Yoruba, unfazed. Justifying their actions and threatening to follow up with more.

After the Hausa man has managed to come to terms with the pain he is experiencing, he continues confronting the watchmen.

“Why did you beat me on my chest?! Why?! Why did you beat me?!”

The volatile watchmen do not take kindly to being confronted. They keep chanting about headlights in Yoruba, raising their voices and brandishing their machetes menacingly.

I am genuinely scared for my safety. I try to do all that I can to prevent the situation from escalating. I gently rub the Hausa man’s shoulders.

“Aboki abeg. Abeg. No vex abeg. No vex.” I attempt to placate him.

“Ejo e ma binu ejo. Ejo e ni suuru. Ko gbo Yoruba ni. Ejo e ma binu.” I try to plead with the watchmen, explaining that the Hausa man did not understand Yoruba.

I don’t think anything I’m doing is working. Everyone is still shouting. Imminent danger still weighs very heavily in the air. I feel very bad for the Hausa man. His English lexicon is very limited, so he does not even seem to have enough words to express his pain.

All of this continues for a few minutes. The Hausa man keeps asking questions, voicing his immense displeasure at the turn of events. The watchmen continue threatening him, and I press on with my completely ineffectual attempts to defuse the situation.

At one point one of the watchmen turns to me and says “Mister, you better go on your way. Or else we will turn on you next.”

On hearing that, I immediately abandon my diplomatic venture and begin to briskly walk away. I’m not in the mood to be assaulted by machetes.

As I leave, the Hausa man’s voice gets louder, with renewed vigour and disgruntlement. 

“Why did you beat me on my chest?!”

I begin to think maybe my soft words were actually calming him down. I turn around briefly to see the watchmen surround him and begin to batter him with their machetes. I turn around and walk faster.

As I walk away, a pang of guilt grips me. In a way, the motorbike man is suffering because of me. Yes he brought me here because he was trying to make a living, but I was the one who persuaded him to come. He did not want to do so initially. I feel distressed because of this, but at the same time I realise I am helpless in this situation because any attempt to take up his fight would seriously jeopardise my wellbeing. So I keep walking.

When I am at a safe distance, I turn around and peep to see if the bike man is still conscious. I am not able to see anything because it is dark, and there are no streetlights. I feel a deep sadness and pity for the innocent man’s suffering. I promise myself that I will give him a significant sum of money the next time I see him.

Eventually I hear the engine of his motorbike revving to life, and I see his headlamp come on. The infamous headlamp which was responsible for everything that had happened. I am glad to know the Hausa man is still largely alright. I heave a sigh of relief, and then I begin to run, in case the tyrannical watchmen decide to turn their attention to the bike man’s passenger.

 

Image Credits: https://privateofficernews.org/uganda-man-attacks-security-officers-with-machete/